Showing posts with label central london. Show all posts
Showing posts with label central london. Show all posts

Monday, 18 April 2016

Hyde Park at Sunset



Hyde Park is arguably London's most celebrated green space, and as the warmth of spring slowly creeps back into the city it's easy to see why; just look at these scenes from yesterday evening!


A stroll through the park at any time of year is a complete treat, especially for those who are as into nature as we are! You will encounter all manner of waterfowl; those sighted at the time of these pictures included heron, swan, grebe, geese (Canada, Egyptian and Toulouse) and all manner of duck.

Monday, 14 March 2016

Matt Leblanc Skuds Around Town for Top Gear Shoot & Causes Outrage!

Pic: Londinium Now

Former Friends star Matt Leblanc, and stunt driver Ken Block, tore it up around Westminster yesterday for a Top Gear shoot featuring Block's Hoonicorn car, a "batsh*t retro-modern all-wheel drive Gymkhana seven ford mustang", leading to a public outcry! Some claim it was disrespectful to WWI and II dead that the new host should be seen to performing wheel spins next to The Cenotaph!

 

What is the Cenotaph?

 

The Cenotaph was originally erected as a temporary structure for a peace parade following WWI but eventually became the UK's primary national war memorial. It is situtated on Whitehall in London and is the site of the annual Remembrance Sunday service, held on the closest Sunday to 11 November each year, a ceremony which commemorates the contribution of British and Commwealth service people made during the two world wars.

 Pic: Wikipedia

 

What now?

 

After viewing images of the day's events in the national papers today fellow Top Gear Host Chris Evans has "unreservedly" apologised on BBC Radio 2 for what the images "seem to portray" which he has described as "entirely disrespectful". 
Leblanc is yet to comment.

Urban Art #11

South Bank (beneath Blackfriars Railway Bridge), Southwark, 2016

Thursday, 10 March 2016

Woman in Black: Then & Now!



 Pic: thewomaninblack.com 

An elderly lawyer is obsessed with the notion of a family curse, which he believes was cast over him decades earlier by a malevolent apparition. After years of torment he enlists the help of a sceptical young actor to help him finally exorcise his soul!

The Woman in Black is a long running play, adapted by Stephen Mallatratt from the book of the same name by Susan Hill, and has been hosted by The Fortune Theatre in London's West End since 2005.

I saw The Woman in Black for the first time when I was about fourteen years old on a class trip, it left a lasting impression and I've wanted to see it again ever since! Back then I didn't know that I would live almost the same amount of life again before finally getting around to it! 
In light of this I thought that it would make an interesting experiment to compare the two experiences, and let you know whether or not, in my own opinion, it has truly stood the test of time. Would it shock me, and the rest of the audience, now as it had then. On that first occassion everyone had been screaming; I hadn't realised that a play could be that scary! I had gone in brave and bold to come out pale and shaken.
This time around it was like I was seeing it again as a fourteen year old boy; the intensity of the performance and the genuine fear that I had felt had been locked up inside some deep, dark part of my brain for all this time. Occasionally these vivid memories have broken free and I've relived this incredible play in both fondness and fear; I remembered it as being completely terrifying. It had kept me awake at night for days afterwards... partly due to the fact that I genuinely believed in ghosts back then! So, was I now simply scared by the memory of being scared and how it had effected me as a youngster, or was the play itself really all I remember it as being cracked up to be? This was the big question!
I was full of nervous excitement and apprehension whilst waiting for it to begin. In many ways, like our protagonist, I had some spirits to exorcise... it was time for me to finally face up to The Woman in Black!
In many ways I think it was almost inevitable that it would fall a little short; I'm a much different person now than I was then- obviously! It was scary, but it wasn't fourteen year old pulling his hood up to protect him from the ghosties scary - of course! Let's delve a little deeper...
The performances cannot be faulted, the actors really do a spectacular job with minimal props and fairly limited space - I remember thinking it then, and I thought it this time too. The performers have changed between time, of course, but the quality of the performance hasn't! They do everything within their power to bring you into the scene through the sheer richness of dialogue and delivery; it's a very minimalist production with lots of simmering monologues. Through their words you can almost begin to see the misty marshes of the story come to life before you, and coupled with some great sound design everything becomes very real, very fast! There is a tireless, brooding intensity to this show; a slow creeping fear begins to boil in your gut as our characters transport us through mere language and gesture to the spooky, provincial backwater of Crythin Gifford (such a slipperily brilliant and evil sounding name!), a fictional market town on the east coast.
I did feel however that some of the jumps missed their mark in comparison to back then...but why? I wondered whether it was an issue with the audience rather than the play. Have we changed that much during the last decade or so? I think the answer must be a yes, but how so? I have of course - I've grown up, but that's not what I mean; there were teens in the audience as well, and they weren't jumping as I had expected them to. Do classic scare tactics no longer work on us as well?
Some think that we've collectively become something of a bunch of dismissive, desensitised, indifferent millennial douchebags who simply tut and shrug our way through life, and have become more used to using emojis than emotions. Could this really be the case? It's certainly a different world now to then... A member of staff told a group of schoolkids that there was to be no photography throughout the performance and it dawned on me that I didn't even have a cameraphone at fourteen! Have 21st century folk become immune to theatre-style shocks? I'm not sure, but I couldn't quite put my finger on it - the teens behind us certainly didn't seem as consistantly and vocally frightened as we had been! Maybe they were a little older, or a little braver, or maybe teens these days are just a little different, full stop.
That said; believe me when I say that there was still plenty of screaming! And a lot of the jumps were still right on the money! I kept looking at my girlfriend to see where she was on the scare-o-meter; often quite high!
I think that my position in the theatre last time compared to this time however played a huge part in my overall engagement and surely that of those around me too. I thought I'd go for the dress circle this time around for a greater overview of the whole stage - which we definitely got! Whereas, the teenage me had been sat at stage level, fully emersed in the action. Without giving too much away, a ground level seat gives a much more interactive experience in hindsight.
The dress circle position was not ideal for a few reasons; firstly I found my legs very squashed in the front row (maybe further back would have been better), and I was conscious of this throughout... Secondly, I just found it far too bright in the upper level; there were distracting exit lights on either side which prevented the scene from ever going completely black which meant that movement could be seen on stage at times when it should not have been visible. This meant that some of the magic of the scene changes were spoilt for me, which was a shame. Finally, I think going for the overview in the dress cricle itself was actually not the best idea; being right down amongst the action for the first viewing had meant that sudden ghostly appearances were that more instant, and had a greater impact.
So, what's the verdict?
Well, I would still definitely, and wholeheartedly, recommend this show to anyone and everyone, and especially as your introduction to the West End experience! My top tip however would be to get yourself a seat right down on the ground level in the middle of the action to experience the frights at their best. The performances are incredible, the story compelling and the use of props a joy to behold! It didn't quite live up to the hype I had built up for it over all these years but maybe that should have been obvious. Its not pre-internet era, ghost-believing teen scary but its pretty damn close! 
An incredibly well acted, chilling experience with one or two big jumps!

Pic: Londinium Now - shouldn't really have taken this, whoops!

Have you been to see The Woman In Black recently or back in the day? What are your memories of seeing it as a youngster? I'd love to hear what you have to say!

All opinions are my own.

A lawyer obsessed with a curse that he believes has been cast over him and his family by the spectre of a Woman in Black, engages a sceptical young actor to help him tell his terrifying story and exorcise the fear that grips his soul. - See more at: http://thewomaninblack.com/the-show#sthash.UQq6dVki.dpuf
A lawyer obsessed with a curse that he believes has been cast over him and his family by the spectre of a Woman in Black, engages a sceptical young actor to help him tell his terrifying story and exorcise the fear that grips his soul. - See more at: http://thewomaninblack.com/the-show#sthash.UQq6dVki.dpuf

Wednesday, 9 March 2016

Top 5 Unlikely and Unusual Animals That Can Be Easily Spotted In London

5) Okapi

 

 Pic: Zoochat.com
 
Ok so this one is a bit of a cheat; there aren't now, and have never been, herds of okapi roaming the streets of London. However, it's still an incredible animal and completely possible to easily view in our great city - albeit at the Zoo! 
So, it looks kind of weird, sure; a strange mix between a zebra, a giraffe and a donkey, indeed the okapi is most closely related to the giraffe, and together they are the only living members of the giraffidae family which is pretty cool, but why does it deserve a place on this list when London Zoo is full of so many awesome animals? Well, mainly due to its former status as a cryptid! This strange beast, endemic to the Democratic Republic of the Congo, had been described for centuries by both the Ancient Egyptians and central African tribes but was rejected by Western science as a myth. It was dubbed "the African unicorn" and was seen as little more than a fantastical hybrid belonging firmly to the realm of legends. 
This changed in 1901 when the British governor of Uganda, Sir Harry Johnston, after whom the animal was finally named okapia johnstoni, acquired skins, a skull and finally a live specimen.
It wasn't until 2008 that the first full photographs of a wild okapi were snapped! These pictures are available to view on the London Zoo website.
So, how had it remained hidden for so long? Mainly because okapi are stealthy, solitary animals, which inhabit the deepest, most remote parts of the Congolese rainforest, and rarely venture into gallery forests or areas disturbed by human habitation. 
They are now classified as endangered due to threats such as logging and hunting for bushmeat, and are fully protected under Congolese law, making the London Zoo examples even more precious. 
So, definitely go and check out these mysterious, and persisting icons of cryptozoology at the Regent's Park Zoo, there was even a baby born there in 2013 - a real rarity! Loving these stripey fellas!

 Pic: Londinium Now - A stuffed example at the Horniman Museum in Forest Hill


4) Pelicans

 

 Pic: BBC

Now onto the weird and truly wild unlikely critters which really do freely roam the capital...
It's mindblowing to think that the pelicans at St James' Park were originally given as a gift to King James II by the Russian Ambassador in 1664. They aren't the same ones that you can see in the park today of course! but during this 400 year period over 40 pelicans have made London their home. Occassionally fresh blood is brought in to maintain a healthy population; the newest of which arrived in 2013, as a gift from the City of Prague. There are actually eight types of pelican in the world, the ones in St James' Park being Great White pelicans which can be found throughout Eurasia and in patchy locations in Africa, south of the Sahara.
The pelicans really are a city staple, and incredibly easy to spot; usually they'll be lounging on Pelican Rock on the park's lake or somewhere near Duck Island Cottage. 
A pelican's diet normally consists of fish, as well as amphibians, turtles, and crustaceans which they gulp down whole using those incredible bills. However, occassionally they'll decide to snack on their fellow bird bros as well. Just check out exhibit A; video evidence, taken in St James' Park itself, featuring a pelican going all National Geographic of an unexpecting pigeon, in front of horrified children no less! Gruesome!

 
Vid: Solidworksmagic 


Pelicans are clearly awesome, if a little brutish, but they only feature at number four on this list due to the fact that most people already know about them; let's crank it up a notch...

3) Terrapins & Turtles 

 

 
Pic: Hackney Gazette


I have never witnessed these critters myself, so maybe they shouldn't be included on a list of animals easily spotted in our fair city? You decide!
Reports of them are widespread, and it does seem that oweing to the fact that I live right next to Regent's Canal, supposedly their number one haunt, it is simply a statistical inevitability that I will spot them in due course, or at least that is if pictorial and anecdotal evidence is anything to go by! 
Evidence such as this awesome little number published on Reddit, which appears to depict a terrapin riding on a dead fox! 

Pic: Bloxie

And this video which allegedly captures the moment a spot of night fishing produced a snapping turtle from the canal's murky depths.

 Vid: Tonymorris1991

And, in true British tabloid fashion the Daily Mail managed to brew up a mild scare piece about them after a baby terrapin was netted in 2013.
The BBC have also reported on them, as have the Express, the Guardian, the Canal & River Trust, and many others. In fact a quick google search of "turtles regents canal london" will produce about 19,600 results, as of 2016; they are definitely here, and due to rising temperatures, probably here to stay. 
All criticism of tabloid journalism aside, this is of course a major problem for native wildlife. A sustained population of these aquatic North American reptiles will chomp their way through our domestic fauna and flora, including fish, frogs and ducklings. This possibly makes them the sole entry it'd be preferable not to have had to feature on this list at all! 
So, where exactly did they come from in the first place? Well, similar to the origins of the Sydenham Beast and other British big cats, as featured in my Top 5 London Monsters article, it is possible, if not highly probable, that they are the result of domestic animals being released into the wild. 
Believe it or not some actually think that the 1980s-90s popularity of the Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles in Britain is to blame! This is due to the fact that many kids wanted to keep turtles as pets, or more specifically the red-eared slider terrapin with their distinctive coloured "eye masks", which the characters were based on. After the cute, baby terrapins inevitably grew too big for the fish tanks they were being housed in many were set free in lakes and rivers. Of course for the most part the UK climate is too chilly for turtles and terrapins to survive in our waterways. However, as summers grow longer and hotter, and winters more mild who knows what the future holds... The recent discovery of  hatchling in the Regent's Canal is certainly a worry as it could prove that the cold-blooded pests are indeed breeding in the wild.
Please do let me know if you manage to spot them, snap a picture if you can, and then get in touch with the RSPCA or the Canal & River Trust!

2) Rose-Ringed Parakeet

 

 
Pic: civilianglobal.com


These exotic little green parrots, native to South Asia and a broad belt just below the Sahara, are a truly unexpected addition to the London flora and fauna, and there are some really cool theories as to their backstory which have become part of London lore. Ideas behind their introduction range from them being escapees from a damaged aviary during the 1987 hurricane, to them being the descendents of a pair released by Jimi Hendrix in Carnaby Street in the 1960s. As a film fan my favourite theory, and the one that I actually heard first, was that the original flock escaped from Isleworth Studios, a branch of Ealing Studios, during the filming of The African Queen starring Katherine Hepburn and Humphrey Bogart in 1951.
However they managed their great escape they seem to be here to stay, and doing extremely well! There are established populations to be seen in and around Crystal Palace Park, Battersea Park, Richmond Park, Wimbledon Common, Greenwich Park, and Hampstead Heath. I've also seen them screeching through the trees in the borough of Bromley on many occassions, where they land on the side of my brother's building and peck at the ventilation grilles.
Basically if you want to witness these cheeky little green invaders then keep your eyes skinned the next time you are wondering through one of the capital's many leafy areas and the chances are you may just catch a glimpse.
But what is the environmental impact on having such an alien species establish itself here in London? Well, very little apparently; the RSPCB don't seem particularly concerned and actually state on their website that they are against the culling of these beaky little bros. They do however stress that it is important to keep their rapidly expanding numbers closely monitored to ensure that there is no long term negative impact on native bird species. For example woodpeckers make use of the same nesting holes and could potentially suffer from the competition. For now however there doesn't seem to be any real government effort to push the newcomers away, and the RSPCB state that all wild birds, their nests and eggs, are protected by law, includes the non-native parakeets.
These feathery fellas are really awesome, colourful additions to our city and I hope you manage to spot them!
It's worth noting that feral populations have established themselves in many other cities across Europe, including in Paris; I used to see them regularly in the suburb of Antony. Check out the photo I snapped there last year whilst out strolling.

Pic: Londinium Now

1) Red Deer & Fallow Deer

 

 Pic: BBC - Yes, those are council blocks in the background!

Finally, my top pic for the most unlikely and unusual animals that can be easily spotted in London are the deer; both red and fallow deer.
It's easy to forgot that we have some absolutely massive parks in and around our even more massive city; for example, Epping Forest in the north east is a truly immense 21.5 square miles (34 square km), and the Royal Park of Richmond in the west which is a more managable but still impressively large 3.69 square miles (5.94 square km) - both of which are full of wild deer!
It's staggering (pun intended) that such large animals, the red deer is in fact our largest native land-mammal, can be found happily living in such close proximity to people within the confines of the 32nd most populous urban centre on the planet! They really aren't shy either, arguably they're the most easily spotted animal on this list. In the East End they've even been known to wander out into residential neighbourhoods for a late night binge of manicured council lawn (see pics below)!
Fun fact: there are actually more than 2 million wild deer in the UK, which means that the deer population is only about a million short of matching the number of Welsh people!
In London you'll see both red and fallow deer; the red, which are chunky and rust coloured are a species native to Britain whereas the fallow, more willowy and spotted like bambi, were introduced from western eurasia.

 Pic: Daily Mail

For deer watching at its best definitely head out to Richmond Park, which was actually established as a deer hunting ground in the 17th century by Charles I, here you'll get a bit of peace and quite to reflect on just how incredible these animals truly are! The countryside there is tranquil and beautiful, full of birdlife (the odd parakeet swooping overhead if you're lucky) and herds of wild deer roaming well with camera range. You could almost feel yourself being transported back to the medieval era of the hunt if it weren't for the fact that the grand spires and skyscrapers of the modern city were clearly visible just beyond the trees. 
Grasp the opportunity by the antlers and take the occassion to go and see these ordinarily secretive, evasive creatures in a setting that doesn't entail tramping for half a day through the back of beyond just to catch half a glimpse in the very distance; you'll definitely thank me for it!

 Pic: Daily Mail

Have you witnessed any of the animals in this list during your trip to London? Are there any other critters that you feel should have made it into the article? I'd love to hear from you and see your pictures!

Thursday, 18 February 2016

The Sky Garden at 20 Fenchurch Street

Forget the Shard, as far as I'm concerned 20 Fenchurch Street aka "the Walkie Talkie" is the London skyscraper of the moment; controversial, garish, and hyper-postmodern. The building seems to have attracted more negative attention than positive since its completion, something which I really don't understand, but personally think adds to its mystique rather than detracts. I quite like how opinionated everyone is about it! Of course, we can't easily dismiss legitimate complaints which have already tarnished the building's reputation somewhat. For example, the solar glare issue which arose during its construction; during a two hour period per day direct sunlight bouncing off of the Walkie Talkie's highly reflective surface was concentrated into a kind of death ray with tempratures in the streets to its south reaching 117 °C! This meant that within this two hour timeframe the building was basically transformed into a colossal magnifying glass, frying passersby like ants and earning it the nickname the "Walkie Scorchie!" The building's architect Rafael Viñoly blamed the phenomenon on global warming and the glass has since been covered with a non-reflective film. 
Many have also complained that the Walkie Talkie has created a wind tunnel effect at street level with the City of London Corporation receiving an increased number of complaints about draughts after the building's completion.
It was also awarded the Carbuncle Cup in 2015 for the "ugliest building in Britain completed within the last twelve months" but honestly I just don't see it! I think its an incredibly aesthetic building... 
It stands a little way apart from its bros, buildings like 122 Leadenhall Street "The Cheesegrater" and 30 St Mary Axe "The Gherkin", and is one of the latest highrise constructions in London's skyscraper boom, which is currently reinventing the city's skyline. Although the Walkie Talkie is not the tallest tower in London it somehow manages, for the moment at least, to completely dominate the everchanging cityscape through sheer weirdness; its like some kind of giant chunky wombat leaning over you. It was originally planned to be a lot taller, 40m taller in fact, however heritage groups expressed concerns, stating that its visual impact would compromise nearby St Paul's and the Tower of London and so it now stands at a respectable 160m - which is certainly tall enough to make an impression!
Personally I adore the way in which London is developing visually. I find it all very exciting, and love to see the old and new complementing, as well as contrasting and even clashing with one another; ideas bouncing back and forth, constantly inventing and reinventing the surroundings. This is exactly what the Victorians did when they decided to build Tower Bridge slap-bang next to the Tower of London; I'm sure it was meant to both complement and compete with the older structure. Both of these buildings were architectural statements of their day; the Normans were saying one thing, Queen Victoria another, both wanted to create a lasting impact on our city; shaping its present and its future. I'm not mad at the latest developments like some people are, I can appreciate the old and the new, and I think 20 Fenchurch Street is absolutely stunning; the curvature of the glasswork, the sheer scale of its flanks... What's more its open to the public, free of charge; all that's needed is a little foresight in selecting a date and time, and a small amount of queuing, although apparently walk-in tickets are available too, and you're free to explore the phenomenal Sky Garden. 


I've heard complaints about the "garden" element of the Sky Garden being little more than a glorified rockery with little to write home about, and although this may be true to a certain extent I really enjoyed my recent visit and let's be honest the view of London is its main draw. When the lift opens up, you round a corner and are greeted by an incredible sight; the city in all its glory! London is certainly a weird looking place, not really beautiful but somehow impressive, enduring and well put together; the Shard stands proud like a towering, immovable sentinel, the Tower of London sits squat like some bold, regal mushroom and a far off glint reveals itself to be the clock face of the Elizabeth Tower. From up here the city is laid bare before you and it's possible to actually appreciate how it really looks like never before, without distraction; something along the lines of Game of Thrones meets Bladerunner, old and new, modern and postmodern, layers upon layers of history and ideas - a sight to behold! Its an incredible sensation to walk level with the tops of skyscapers, and to look down onto the millions of oblivious metropolitanites swarming like insects in the streets below. This experience comes for free courtesy of 20 Fenchurch Street, "the Walkie Talkie". Regardless of your opinion on the structure itself, make sure that you don't miss out on the opportunity to soak in that incredible view from its Sky Garden during your time in London! Plan ahead and book it in - it'll be worth it. 
Tip - plan to go half an hour before sunset to witness the city in both daylight and darkness; seeing all of those millions of lights begining to turn on at dusk is something quite magical.


Sunday, 14 February 2016

Chinese New Year 2016 - Year of the Fire Monkey, Chinatown, London


Be sure to check out Chinese New Year in London's Chinatown next year if you get the chance; a brilliant, if crowded, day of colour, music, and street food!


 Floats on Shaftsbury Avenue


 Dragon float


Heart of Chinatown, Gerrard Street


Soho Fire Station was open to the public


Anyone know the name of this artist? I see his/her work all over town... Inside the fire station


Parade regalia out the back of the fire station


Fireman Sam with hipster moustache?


Dragon dance in Newport Place, Chinatown


Shaolin Fists 


Leicester Square, seeming spookily empty after the crush of Gerrard Street

Saturday, 13 February 2016

Chinese New Year in London

London is going all out for Chinese New Year!

London is celebrating Chinese New Year big time in 2016 (or the year of the monkey, as it has been since Monday)! There is a Magic Lantern Festival at Chiswick House, which has been going on since 3rd February and will be continuing until 6th March (closed Tuesday 23rd Feb & Monday 29th Feb), and a parade will be snaking its way through the west end on Sunday 14th February, starting at 10am at Trafalgar Square and finishing in the heart of Chinatown. There are performances and activities being held today at the National Maritime Museum in Greenwich, and in my neck of the woods; at both the Museum of Childhood in Bethnal Green and in Shoreditch.


So, what exactly is Chinese New Year?

Chinese New Year, is also know as Lunear New Year, or the Spring Festival, which is actually the most accurate translation from modern Chinese. It is an important event on the calendar of countries with traditionally significant populations of Chinese people including Hong Kong, Macau, Taiwan, Singapore, Thailand, Cambodia, Indonesia, Malaysia, Mauritius, the Philippines and of course mainland China. It is basically a period of celebration to mark the first fifteen days of the Chinese lunisolar calendar. Although the Gregorian calendar, the Western calendar, is in official use in China, the traditional Chinese calendar plays an important role, and public holidays to mark the event of the Chinese New Year are observed in many of the aforementioned countries. 

How does the Chinese Calendar work?

The Chinese calendar is split into sixty year cycles, and each year is given two distinctions known as an Earthly Branch and a Celestial Stem. There are twelve Earthly Branches, each represented by an animal; the rat, ox, tiger, rabbit, dragon, snake, horse, goat, monkey, cockerel, dog and pig. There are ten Celestial Stems, originating from an ancient belief in ten seperate suns, which are themselves linked to five elements; wood, fire, earth, metal and water which alternate every two years. So each year is defined by both an animal and an element; this year, 2016, as of Monday 8th February, is a Fire Monkey year - which sounds pretty badass!
The calendar is further divided into twelve lunar months, each month begining on the new moon and lasting one lunar cycle (either twenty nine or thirty days). Occassionaly a leap month needs to be added for the calendar to keep adding up to a full year. 
The calendar does not traditionally number years continuously, however outside of China it is often counted from the reign of the Yellow Emperor in the 3rd Millenium BCE, although the exact date is disputed by scholars. A good estimate would be that as of 8th February 2016 we entered the Chinese year of 4714.


Why are the Chinese significant to London?

Firstly, the Chinese make up London's forth largest Asian population, after Indians, Pakistanis and Bangladeshis respectively, and are fairly well spread across the city; numbering around 114,800 in 2007. London has also been twinned with Shanghai since 1996, and entered a sister city relationship with Beijing in 2006. Despite this, Britain and China actually have a very complicated political relationship. Although the Chinese President, Xi Jinping, was hosted here in London late last year on a state visit where he signed over £30 billion worth of trade deals, MI5 actually cite Chinese espionage as one of the greatest threats to UK national security, and public outrage at China's poor human and animal rights record is widespread. 
China and the UK have had many historical disputes including over the status of Hong Kong, choosing opposing sides during the Cold War, and outright conflict during the First and Second Opium Wars. Despite this somewhat bad blood between the two nations, China and the UK forged "a strategic partnership" in 1997 following the transfer of sovereignty of Hong Kong, and the UK government recognised Tibet as an integral part of China for the first time in 2008. The Tibet issue had long been something of a touchy subject. The Dalai Lama has stated that he and Prince Charles are "best friends", and the future king's abstention in joining his mother, the Queen, in hosting a banquet in honour of President Xi's last visit was seen by many as a strategic snub for this very reason. 
Modern politics aside, the history of Chinese populations in London is long and complex; Chinese people first arrived in the city as sailors during the 19th century. These first populations were concentrated in the Limehouse area of the East End, which was the original area to be given the name of Chinatown in London. This Chinatown, which was mainly known for its slums and opium dens, was severely damaged during the Blitz in WWII. After the war, due to an influx of immigration from Hong Kong and a rise in the popularity of Chinese cuisine, many restaurants began to spring up elsewhere. Most notably the present Chinatown, which occupies the area in and around Gerrard Street in the West End, began to develop during the 1970s. 
Today this area, which is a very distinct corner of town, instantly recognisable by its huge decorative gates and statues, and bustling, vibrant atmosphere, boasts over eighty restaurants and houses the London Chinatown Community Centre which claims to have helped 40,000 people since its foundation in 1980. 
Chinatown is well worth a look during your visit to London and is an integral part of the unique cultural blend that modern London has to offer. If you don't have time to dine out then why not dip into one of the Chinese supermarkets and pick up a bag of authentic smoked tea or traditional snacks to take away with you? Locals will be interested to know that a quick side step down Dansey Place just off of Wardour Street, offers you the chance to buy deliciously fresh, homemade noodles at £1 a bag from Lo's Noodle Factory! 

I hope that you found this interesting and informative, and if you are Chinese living in London, or indeed visiting London, I would love to hear from you to find out what you thought of our city, of Chinatown and the Chinese New Year Celebrations!

Happy Year of The Monkey!

Monday, 18 January 2016

Ann Veronica Janssens: yellowbluepink, Wellcome Collection


So, we finally managed to get along to the Ann Veronica Janssens installation, yellowbluepink, at the Wellcome Collection and it was well worth the hour's queue to get in.
This installation by the Brussels-based artist was intended as an experiment into perception. She filled a white walled room with a thick mist and intensely lit different areas in powerully contrasting colours. The aim of the installation was to deliberately disorientate as well as challenge our process of perception and the way in which we interact with our external environment. The results were something quite spectacular and really something which should be experienced rather than read, or viewed through photography. I will try my best to describe it to you...


On entering the room we were instantly submerged into a mono-world of singular colour; it was as if all of our senses were preoccupied with processing one blanket thought, that of colour. It was like being blind, but blind with colour. I began to experience waves of both panic and euphoria as I lost all sense of depth and distance. At times I could feel my mind longing for the familiar landmarks of surface and texture. My eyes tried in vain to make sense of this strange new environment; scanning the mist like digital cameras trapped in an unbeatable mission to auto focus.
Voices could be heard all around and occassionally the silhouettes of other visitors could be seen gliding in and out of view like spectral forms through a snow drift. Suddenly a wall appeared out of nowhere, the grain of the paint startling to the mind, is it real, is it actually a wall, your mind has almost begun to forget what physical matter looks like, reaching forward the sense of touch confirms that yes you have indeed reached the outer limits of this strange new world.
Moving through the installation colours flit from yellow, blue, pink within the blink of an eye. The effect is that it is not always clear to the mind whether the colours themselves have physically changed or if it is simply your position geographically within the room which has brought you into a new area of colour.
For me, it was when entering an area of intense white that a deep rooted fear tried it's hardest to grip me. It was like the pinks and blues were too artificial to cause genuine alarm, however here submerged in the whiteness some primordial horror at being lost within a deep blizzard or some unpenetrable fog began to grip me and my reptilian brain wanted nothing better than to run!
This was truly an exhibit to remember, with yellowbluepink Janssens has achieved her goals of removing us from daily life and allowing us to become aware of actually being conscious. A brilliant, thought provoking artist and certainly one to look out for at future events.


Although this particular installation has now been wrapped up, the States of Mind exhibition at the Wellcome Collection continues (4 February 2016 - 16 October 2016), and will examine ideas around the nature of consciousness, particularly what happens when our conscious experience is interrupted, damaged or undermined. Work by Carla MacKinnon, Louise K Wilson, A. R. Hopwood, Mary Kelly and Aya Ben Ron will be featured throughout the year.


Tuesday, 10 November 2015

Urban Art #9

Queen Square/Old Gloucester Street, Camden, 2015

Tavistock Square Gardens



When you next find yourself walking between Fitzrovia and St Pancras, or perhaps on your way to The Wellcome Collection on Euston Road, take a minute from your day and head into the delightful Tavistock Square Gardens on Tavistock Square.
The gardens are a calm little patch of green in the middle of the frantic, hare-paced city and provide a welcome leafy spot to sit and think.
Exceedingly charming and extremely restful, the gardens also play host to the friendliest, most confident squirrels I've encountered so far in London (which is actually a bold statement). These little furry fellas will actually climb your leg if you let them!
The space has been unofficially regarded as a "peace garden" due to its resident monuments; a stone commemorating "conscientious objectors all over the world and in every age", a cherry tree in memory of the victims of the Hiroshima and Nagasaki bombings and a centre piece featuring Mahatma Gandhi. There are also trees and benches all over the gardens dedicated to different causes and people which will make you smile, for example "the friendship tree" or "a Canadian who loved living in London", very sweet.
Next time you are in the area take a minute out of your busy schedule to relax in this lovely little scrap of greenery, you'll certainly thank me for it.

Monday, 9 November 2015

Wellcome Collection



Originally setting off to explore the new Ann Veronica Janssens installation yellowbluepink, being hosted in the same building and running 15 October 2015 - 3 January 2016, but ultimately aborting in order to avoid a two hour long wait in line. We decided to take in the permanent exhibits at the Wellcome Collection instead and certainly weren't dissappointed.
I hadn't heard of the Wellcome Collection before last weekend, but apparently I was in the minority as it recieves 500,000 visitors annually! It's easy to see why.
The collection advertises itself as "the free destination for the incurably curious" and is a great alternative for those seeking a similar atmosphere, but wishing to avoid the overcrowding and overpricing of, the frankly overated, Ripley's Believe It or Not! in Piccadilly. The Wellcome Collection is also a little more focused than Ripley's in that it deals with a specific theme; the connections that we can draw between medicine, life and art. 
We are presented with two permanent exhibitions; Medicine Man, a part of the collection obtained by American-British pharmaceutical engineer Sir Henry Wellcome, and Medicine Now an exhibit using art and mixed media to showcase aspects of modern medicine.
Medicine Man, my favourite, and the larger of the two exhibits is an obsorbing and fascinating collection of medical artifacts and curiosities from all over the world. Such wonders include a lock of George III (the mad king)'s hair, a shrunken head and a beautifully preserved 17th century recipe book detailing how to brew up a plague "curing" potion.
This collection is a little more aimed at adults than children due to the sheer amount of death imagery and certain artifacts it could be tricky to explain (see Japanese sex aids) but I'll leave that up to your discretion! 
Medicine Now is also very interesting and is basically a little gallery space presenting various art installations with an emphasis on science and medicine. Some of the work here is a little nauseating but intelligent and thought provoking nonetheless. 
A brilliant little find and completely free! Make sure to come and check out the Wellcome Collection on a rainy afternoon in London.
I'm certain we'll also be back to successfully visit, and review, the Ann Veronica Janssens installation before it dissappears in early January so stay tuned for that, and drop me a comment if you have already visited this or the permanent attractions at the Wellcome Collection to me know what you thought.

Peruvian Mummy, Medicine Man

Wednesday, 4 November 2015

Top 5 Overshadowed London Landmarks

London is so full of iconic landmarks, such as Buckingham Palace, Tower Bridge and the Houses of Parliament to name but a few, it's little wonder some of the lesser known monuments get completely overshadowed. Here is a list of the top 5 landmarks that tourists rarely give the time of day but are equally as fascinating and awe inspiring as their more recognisable counterparts.

5) Cleopatra's Needle 

 



Some of the world's most premiere cities boast their very own Egyptian obelisk, Paris, New York, Rome... and London is no exception. However, ordinarily they occupy pride of place in some great plaza for all to see, few are as discreetly tucked away as Cleopatra's Needle. 

Stationed on the river front, and all but missable unless passing by boat, this great monolith can be easily overlooked, especially when taking into account it is practically opposite the massive London Eye and just a few minutes walk from Parliament and Westminster Abbey.

It is however very striking, and has an interesting history too; forming a pair with the one that stands in Central Park, New York, it was originally erected in Heliopolis by Thutmose III, around 1450 BC. It was presented to the UK in 1819 by Muhammad Ali of Egypt and Sudan to commemorate Britain's efforts in keeping the French from invading Egypt during the French Revolutionary Wars. The British, although welcoming the gesture, declined to fund the Needle's transportation to London.

In around 1815 Italian-born Giovanni Battista Belzoni, Father of modern Egyptology, personally funded the transportation of the Needle from Cairo to Alexandria. He was unable however to fund its onward journey to London, so it stayed in Alexandria for about the next 60 years.

Finally in 1877 distinguished anatomist and dermatologist Sir William James Erasmus Wilson paid for the Needle to be placed inside a specially built iron cylinder and transported by sea. The voyage met with disaster however when a storm in the Bay of Biscay made the cylinder uncontrollable. When a rescue boat arrived to help those steering the cylinder it capsized and all six of the crew were lost; they are named on a bronze plaque attached to the needle's mounting stone. The Needle drifted lost for four days until it was discovered by Spanish trawlers, and subsquently rescued by a British steamer.

It finally arrived in London in 1878, and was erected where it stands today on the Victoria Embankment. A time capsule was placed inside the front of its pedestal which contains items such as a set of 12 photographs of the best-looking English women of the day, a complete set of contemporary British coins, a portrait of Queen Victoria and copies of the Bible in several languages.
The Needle is flanked by two faux-Egyptian sphinxes, one of which shows signs of WWI bomb damage. These sphinxes were installed incorrectly, looking at the Needle rather than guarding it, and this is how they remain to this day. 

An interesting and impressive monument, it is well worth a look! 

4) All Hallows-by-the-Tower

 

  

Just a short walk from The Tower of London you will find All Hallows-by-the-Tower. Admittedly it's not the most visually interesting of structures that you will find in London however this ancient Anglican church is a grade 1 listed building placing it in the same category for significant historic and cultural importance as Buckingham Palace and St Paul's Cathedral. 

What is impressive about this much overlooked building is just how old and unique it is. The original structure was established in 675 by the Anglo-Saxons on top of a former Roman site and is one of the oldest churches in the City of London. Traces of the older Roman structure are still present both in the recycled tiles within an Anglo-Saxon archway (the oldest church fabric in the city) and a portion of pavement in the crypt. 

The church survived an explosion in 1650, albeit being badly damaged and in need of repair; the only example of building work done on a church during the Commonwealth era. It also survived the Great Fire of 1666, during which the celebrated diarist Samuel Pepys climbed its spire to watch the progress of the blaze.

It was all but levelled by German bombs during the Blitz and was subject to extensive reparations during the 1950s.

On account of these numerous reparations at different periods in time this ancient church is a real hodgepodge of the different influences and architectural styles which will be immediately obvious as you walk around it outside, and observe the checkerboard of different brickwork and masonry.

Step inside the church, which is free to enter, and you will be struck by an instant state of blissful tranquility, its walls shield those seeking sanctuary from the hustle and bustle of the city and offer an oasis of perpetual calm in the heart of London. 

The decor is also stunningly beautiful; natural light pours in from all sides through the magnificent stained-glass, softly illuminating the airy interior, it is so soothing to the eye that on leaving you will be immediately hit by how seeringly harsh and angular everything now appears.

All Hallows also boasts some incredible artifacts such as a Croke Altar Tomb which was smashed into over 150 pieces by an air-raid in 1940 and subsequently restored, and a crucifix made of wood from the Cutty Sark. You can also head underneath the church and observe the original Roman pavement along with many other incredible items in the Crypt Museum.

This is definitely one not to miss! The Tower of London will cost you up to £24.50 per person, so make sure that you head along to All Hallows before or after your visit for a good full day out!


3) Monument to the Great Fire of london

 

 


London's most famous column has stood pride of place in Trafalgar square, crowned with the immortal stone effigy of Admiral Horatio Nelson for over 170 years, however The Monument to the Great Fire of London is equally as impressive, with the added bonus that you can climb it for the sum of just £4 per adult.

Neatly tucked away down a back street and surprisingly easy to miss, The Monument stands 202 ft (62 m) high, making it the tallest isolated stone column in the world. Its height is actually significant; 202 ft from where it was erected is the place that the Great Fire first broke out at a bakery shop on Pudding Lane in 1666. 

Capped with a great urn gilded in gold leaf, it was designed by the legendary Sir Christopher Wren and Robert Hooke, who also collaborated on St Paul's Cathedral, the Royal Greenwich Observatory and many other great architectural feats.

It's definitely worth taking a look! A word of warning however; if you plan on climbing the 311 steps of narrow winding staircase to the top just make sure to be physically and mentally prepared, as it really does take it out of you!

2) Royal Albert Hall and The Albert Memorial

 


Our penultimate entry is a twofer; the colossal Albert Memorial and stunning Royal Albert Hall which have stood facing each other, solemn and proud, for over 140 years.

Situated between Kensington Gardens and the museum district, these two magnificent structures are rarely listed as top sights to see in London, which is a great shame.

Both were completed in the early 1870s in dedication to Queen Victoria's beloved husband, Albert, the Prince Consort, who died of typhoid in 1861. This whole area, centred around Exhibition Road containing these two structures and all the top museums is known as "Albertopolis", named after the Prince. Albert was a great patron of the arts and sciences; it was he the real driving force behind The Great Exhibition of 1851, which took place just up the road in Hyde Park, and was used to showcase Britain's innovation and position as the global leader of industry. 

The Albert Memorial is elegant and impressive in a Gothic Revival style, and features allegorical sculptures depicting the key areas of Victorian achievement and preoccupation; agriculture, commerce, engineering and manufacturing, along with representations of the four corners of the empire; Asia, Africa, America and Europe. In the centre sits a huge gilded bronze statue of Albert himself which was ceremonially set in place in 1875, and has sat there ever since.

Opposite the memorial is the Royal Albert Hall which is best known as the venue of The Proms, an eight week long summer orchestral event held annually, but also hosts a variety of live events throughout the year including The Classic Brit Awards.

The building itself is seriously impressive; an immense ellipse plan structure with major and minor axes of 272 ft (83 m) and 236 ft (72 m), encircled by a phenomenal great mosaic frieze, depicting "The Triumph of Arts and Sciences", and ultimately crowned with an enormous glass and wrought iron dome 135 ft (41 m) tall. It simply has to be seen! 

Before revealing what makes it to our number 1 spot, here are some honourable mentions;

 

Marble Arch 

 

 

Often it's all about your surroundings; it's pretty hard for Marble Arch to capture the imagination to any real extent sat unceremoniously and without purpose on a traffic island at one of the far corners of Hyde Park. Now imagine it positioned as it should have been, and once was, at the State entrance of Buckingham Palace about at the site that the famous balcony stands today and it will paint a completely different picture.

The arch was another feat of Victorian architectural success and although it pales somewhat in comparison to some of the other great European arches, the Arc de Triomphe in Paris and the Brandenburg Gate in Berlin spring to mind, it still deserves a place somewhere on this list for its understated and overshadowed elegance.

The Millennium Dome (The O2 Arena)

 



The Millennium Dome is best known to the British as a giant white elephant and a huge waste of time and money. It's basically unknown by everyone else on the face of the planet, and that's a huge part of the problem.  

Completed to coincide with the turn of the millennium, and seen by many as little more than a glorified circus tent, The Dome was originally built to house "The Millennium Experience". The Experience was billed at the time as being an event which would rival The Great Exhibtion in terms of showcasing a sense of British prowess and national pride. Then Prime Minister (now war criminal) Tony Blair said at the time "In the Dome we have a creation that, I believe, will truly be a beacon to the world". It wasn't.

The Dome cost around £1.66 billion (in 2015 pounds) to build which it was meant to easily make back through ticket sales to The Millennium Experience in just one year. It didn't. People caught on quickly that The Experience consisted of little more than shameless advertising for big brands and was a major disappointment. I was one of the schoolchildren who did actually make it along to The Dome during the millennium year, and can honestly say I remember more about what I had for lunch that day (cheese and onion slice and a banana, which squished everywhere in my bag) than what was inside the exhibition.

The Dome stood unused, but for an event or two for a few of years, until it was bought up in 2005 by telecommunications company O2 and rebranded as The O2 Arena. 

The central arena is seriously big and now hosts many concerts and live events, which have included the artistic gymnastics and basketball during the 2012 Summer Olympics.

Despite the hate The Dome itself still remains a remarkable feat of late 20th century engineering and is definitely worth checking out, it's just a shame that it's so hard to see it from almost anywhere in the city.

To soak in this controversial masterpiece why not plan ahead to take in a concert during your stay and experience it up close and personal. 

1) The Natural History Museum

 


The Natural History Museum is yet another example of phenomenal 19th century architecture, completed in 1880 and clad in beautiful blue and beige terracotta to resist the smoggy atmosphere of Victorian London, it stands as an eternal monument to the life sciences.

Now this may seem a strange choice for number one on this list, tourists flock to The Natural History Museum every day, in fact it receives over 5 million visitors annually, but what I mean to say is that the museum as a structure is completely overshadowed by the incredible array of artifacts that it contains. These artifacts include dinosaur skeletons, the body of a giant squid, and of course the famous full-sized replica of a blue whale, to name but a few. The collection is really impressive, there is no denying that, but so is the building itself, it's like a classical palace or a cathedral, albeit one dedicated to the worship of science. Indeed it is sometimes dubbed the cathedral of nature, and for good reason; it was actually custom built to house the collection that we still see there today.  

The museum was the brainchild of palaeontologist Richard Owen, who was Superintendent of the natural history departments of the British Museum during the 1850s. Owen saw that the natural history department needed more space and The Natural History Museum (officially known as British Museum (Natural History) until 1992) was the result of his vision.

Everything was purpose-built in hommage to the natural world and perfectly compliments the collection housed within. Gaze up in awe at the chimerae which adorn the outer walls and notice that rather than being grotesques they actually depict a vast array of flora and fauna, both living and dead. On Owen's request the living and extinct species featured on the west and east wings respectively. This explicit seperation of the two classes of creature has been seen as a statement against Darwin's attempt to link present species with past through the theory of natural selection, something which Owen refuted. It has often struck me when gazing at the hundreds of stone monkeys, which climb their way up the magnificent columns within, just how Darwinesque they seem in appearance. Perhaps this too was an opportunity that Owen took to ridicule Darwin, in the same way that contemporary publications chose to do through the use of caricature at the time. However, it was Darwin who ultimately had the last laugh, his laws of natural selection have stood the test of time and a larger than life sized marble statue of him now sits pride of place on the central staircase of the museum.

When visiting the museum you really owe it to yourself to take all of this in; climb to the top of the stairs and just look out across the vastness of the enterance hall. Make note of the exquisite floral paintings on the ceiling and the sculptures on the walls, and how the colosal arches and columns make it seem almost as if you are standing beneath the ribs of some ancient fossilised giant. 
Over 130 years old and yet as stunning now as it must have been when first gazed upon by Victorian eyes; make sure to fully open your own and appreciate this incredible London landmark for the spectacular feat that it is.

Happy sightseeing! Make sure to sign up to the mailing list and please do drop me any comments and thoughts that you have about this list, I would love to hear them. Also, any suggestions for future articles and reviews are most welcome so don't hesitate to let me know!